Gauge and Sizing
Gauge is the thickness of the jewelry, which is based on the American Standard Wire Gauge. It starts at 36g and goes to 0g. The larger the number, the thinner the wire will be. When choosing a gauge to be pierced at, the piercer must decide which is thick enough to reduce migration and tearing but thin enough not to add too much weight. See the gauge to mm/inch conversion chart below for more information.
| Gauge | Metric | Inches |
| 20g | 0.82mm | 0.032 of an inch |
| 18g | 1.024mm | 0.040 of an inch |
| 16g | 1.33mm | 0.051 of an inch |
| 14g | 1.63mm | 0.064 of an inch |
| 12g | 2.06mm | 0.081 of an inch |
| 10g | 2.60mm | 0.102 of an inch |
| 8g | 3.25mm | 0.128 of an inch |
| 6g | 4.12mm | 0.162 of an inch |
| 4g | 5.18mm | 0.204 of an inch |
| 2g | 6.53mm | 0.257 of an inch |
| 0g | 8.26mm | 0.325 of an inch |
| 00g | 9.55mm | 0.365(3/8) of an inch |
| 000g | 11.11mm | 0.437(7/16) of an inch |
| 0000g | 12.71mm | 0.51(1/2) of an inch |
Another factor that influences the choice of jewelry is its width or length. The width is the area between the inside of the ring or barbell at its widest point. When picking the correct jewelry, a few standard factors need to be addressed:
- How much swelling will happen during the healing?
- How flat will the jewelry be in the distance between the two piercing holes?
- How will the jewelry lie or hang on the body?
Swelling is a factor with all piercings. It is normal for a non-oral piercing to swell anywhere from 1/16 of an inch to 1/8 of an inch. So, if the piercing is going to be roughly 3/8 inch, it is best to add 1/8 inch and use jewelry with a width of at least 1/2 inch. With oral piercing, especially tongue piercings. The piercing can swell as much as a 1/4 or 3/8 of an inch. Therefore, it's best to pierce with jewelry that has a much wider length and then downsize it during the healing process.
Rings and Circular jewelry are only suggested for a few select piercings. These include Daith, Septum, Oral Frenum Piercing(Which we do not offer), and some genital piercings. It is important that the circular jewelry is wider, not just to allow for swelling but to ensure that the area of the jewelry that is in the piercing is as flat as possible. For example, a Daith piercing may only be 1/4 inch wide, but the jewelry will need to be 3/8 inch wide. If it is not wide enough, this can cause pressure points that lead to bumps or other issues, and may prevent the jewelry from lying flat.
If you were pierced with a post and want to switch to circular jewelry, first, you should wait until the piercing is seasoned, which is usually three to six times the length of the healing period. Even then, jewelry needs to be wider than required to prevent issues such as it not sitting right, causing pressure points, or indentations.
After the piercing is healed, you still want the jewelry to be larger than the piercing area; this is especially true with piercings in areas of the body that expand and contract. For example, tongues, nipples, and genital piercings all tend to grow, and if the jewelry is too tight, it can be excruciating when they do. This is even the case with a well-healed piercing.
Below are some standard jewelry sizes and types used when piercing. People come in all kinds of shapes and sizes, so this is by no means a set size, but just a general guide of what I have found works best for healing these piercings.
| PIERCING | GAUGE | WIDTH | JEWELRY TYPE |
|---|---|---|---|
| Tragus | 18g to 16g | 9/32 to 3/8 | Labret Stud |
| Anti-Tragus | 18 to 16g | 3/8 to 7/16 | Labret Stud or Curved Barbell |
| Conch | 16g to 14g | 5/16 to 3/8 | Labret Stud |
| Daith | 18g to 14g | 5/16 to 7/16 | Circular Barbell Curved Barbell Captive Bead Ring |
| Ear Cartilage | 18g to 10g | 9/32 to 3/8 | Labret Stud |
| Ear Lobe | 18g to 6g | 9/32 to 3/8 | Labret Stud |
| Helix | 18g to 14g | 9/32 to 3/8 | Labret Stud Barbell |
| Industrial | 14g to 12g | 1 to 1 1/2 | Standard Barbell |
| Orbit | 18g to 10g | 3/8 to 5/8 | Circular Barbell Captive Bead Ring |
| Rook | 18g to 16g | 5/16 to 3/8 | Curved Barbell |
Cheek and Beauty Mark | 14g to 12g | 3/8 to 1/2 | Labret Stud |
| Labret | 14g to 12g | 3/8 to 1/2 | Labret Stud |
| Lip | 16g to 12g | 3/8 to 7/16 | Labret Stud |
| Tongue | 14g to 10g | 3/4 to 7/8 | Standard Barbell |
| Eyebrow | 18g to 14g | 5/16 to 7/16 | Curved Barbell |
| Nostril | 18g to 16g | 9/32 to 7/16 | Labret Stud |
| Spetum | 14g to 10g | 7/16 to 1/2 | Circular Barbell Captive Bead Ring Spetum Retainer |
Nipple
| 14g to 10g | 1/2 to 3/4 | Standard Barbell |
| Horizon Clitoral Hood | 14g to 12g | 7/16 to 1/2 | Captive Bead Ring |
| Vertical Clitoral Hood | 14g to 12g | 3/8 to 1/2 | Curved Barbell |
| Labia | 12g to 10g | 1/2 to 5/8 | Circular Barbell Captive Bead Ring |
| Prince Albert | 12g to 8g | 5/8 to 3/4 | Circular Barbell Captive Bead Ring |
| Frenum | 12g to 10g | 5/8 to 3/4 | Standard Barbell |
| Scrotum | 12g to 8g | 1/2 | Circular Barbell Captive Bead Ring |
| Guiche | 12g to 8g | 5/8 to 3/4 | Circular Barbell Captive Bead Ring |
| Foreskin | 12g to 8g | 1/2 | Circular Barbell Captive Bead Ring |
| Dido | 14g to 10g | 3/8 to 1/2 | Curved Barbell |