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Gauge and Sizing

Gauge is the thickness of the jewelry, which is based on the American Standard Wire Gauge. It starts at 36g and goes to 0g. The larger the number, the thinner the wire will be. When choosing a gauge to be pierced at, the piercer must decide which is thick enough to reduce migration and tearing but thin enough not to add too much weight. See the gauge to mm/inch conversion chart below for more information.

 

GaugeMetricInches
20g0.82mm0.032 of an inch
18g1.024mm0.040 of an inch
16g1.33mm0.051 of an inch
14g1.63mm0.064 of an inch
12g2.06mm0.081 of an inch
10g2.60mm0.102 of an inch
8g3.25mm0.128 of an inch
6g4.12mm0.162 of an inch
4g5.18mm0.204 of an inch
2g6.53mm0.257 of an inch
0g8.26mm0.325 of an inch
00g9.55mm0.365(3/8) of an inch
000g11.11mm0.437(7/16) of an inch
0000g12.71mm0.51(1/2) of an inch

 

Another factor that influences the choice of jewelry is its width or length. The width is the area between the inside of the ring or barbell at its widest point. When picking the correct jewelry, a few standard factors need to be addressed:

  1. How much swelling will happen during the healing?
  2. How flat will the jewelry be in the distance between the two piercing holes?
  3. How will the jewelry lie or hang on the body?

Swelling is a factor with all piercings. It is normal for a non-oral piercing to swell anywhere from 1/16 of an inch to 1/8 of an inch. So, if the piercing is going to be roughly 3/8 inch, it is best to add 1/8 inch and use jewelry with a width of at least 1/2 inch. With oral piercing, especially tongue piercings. The piercing can swell as much as a 1/4 or 3/8 of an inch. Therefore, it's best to pierce with jewelry that has a much wider length and then downsize it during the healing process. 

Rings and Circular jewelry are only suggested for a few select piercings. These include Daith, Septum, Oral Frenum Piercing(Which we do not offer), and some genital piercings. It is important that the circular jewelry is wider, not just to allow for swelling but to ensure that the area of the jewelry that is in the piercing is as flat as possible. For example, a Daith piercing may only be 1/4 inch wide, but the jewelry will need to be 3/8 inch wide. If it is not wide enough, this can cause pressure points that lead to bumps or other issues, and may prevent the jewelry from lying flat. 

If you were pierced with a post and want to switch to circular jewelry, first, you should wait until the piercing is seasoned, which is usually three to six times the length of the healing period. Even then, jewelry needs to be wider than required to prevent issues such as it not sitting right, causing pressure points, or indentations.

After the piercing is healed, you still want the jewelry to be larger than the piercing area; this is especially true with piercings in areas of the body that expand and contract. For example, tongues, nipples, and genital piercings all tend to grow, and if the jewelry is too tight, it can be excruciating when they do. This is even the case with a well-healed piercing.

Below are some standard jewelry sizes and types used when piercing. People come in all kinds of shapes and sizes, so this is by no means a set size, but just a general guide of what I have found works best for healing these piercings.

PIERCING GAUGEWIDTHJEWELRY TYPE
Tragus18g to 16g9/32 to 3/8Labret Stud
Anti-Tragus18 to 16g3/8 to 7/16

Labret Stud

or Curved Barbell

Conch16g to 14g5/16 to 3/8Labret Stud
Daith18g to 14g5/16 to 7/16

Circular Barbell

Curved Barbell

Captive Bead Ring

Ear Cartilage18g to 10g9/32 to  3/8Labret Stud
Ear Lobe18g to 6g9/32 to 3/8Labret Stud
Helix 18g to 14g9/32 to 3/8

Labret Stud

Barbell

Industrial 14g to 12g1 to 1 1/2Standard Barbell
Orbit 18g to 10g3/8 to 5/8

Circular Barbell

Captive Bead Ring

Rook 18g to 16g5/16 to 3/8Curved Barbell

Cheek and

Beauty Mark

14g to 12g3/8 to 1/2Labret Stud
Labret 14g to 12g3/8 to 1/2 Labret Stud
Lip 16g to 12g3/8 to 7/16Labret Stud
Tongue 14g to 10g3/4 to 7/8Standard Barbell
Eyebrow 18g to 14g5/16 to 7/16Curved Barbell
Nostril18g to 16g9/32 to 7/16 Labret Stud
Spetum 14g to 10g7/16 to 1/2 

Circular Barbell

Captive Bead Ring

Spetum Retainer

Nipple 

 

14g to 10g1/2 to 3/4Standard Barbell
Horizon Clitoral Hood14g to 12g7/16 to 1/2Captive Bead Ring
Vertical Clitoral Hood14g to 12g3/8 to 1/2Curved Barbell
Labia12g to 10g 1/2 to 5/8

Circular Barbell

Captive Bead Ring

Prince Albert12g to 8g5/8 to 3/4

Circular Barbell

Captive Bead Ring

Frenum 12g to 10g5/8 to 3/4Standard Barbell 
Scrotum 12g to 8g1/2

Circular Barbell

Captive Bead Ring

Guiche 12g to 8g5/8 to 3/4

Circular Barbell

Captive Bead Ring

Foreskin 12g to 8g1/2

Circular Barbell

Captive Bead Ring

Dido 14g to 10g3/8 to 1/2Curved Barbell