Industrial Piercing Jewelry

This section covers the choice of jewelry that is best for Industrial Piercings. Industrial is a term used to describe several different piercings, but the most common is two helix piercings crossing the upper part of the ear at an angle. However, it can be any two piercings connected by a barbell.

Jewelry Style:

There are two schools of thought regarding industrial piercings. The first step is to do the piercings with two different pieces of jewelry, and then, once the two are healed, to put a single barbell in to connect them. The other is to do the piercing with a single piece of jewelry. I've found that the latter is the best choice,e and here are the advantages and Disadvantages of each option:

• Pierced with a single needle and a Barbell:
  • The Advantages:
  1. The piercings must not migrate out of alignment during the healing process.
  2. The piercing path is straight and in line, without the margin of error that could occur when using two needles.
  • The Disadvantages:
  1. ​​The jewelry is fixed and can add pressure that may prolong healing and increase migration.
  2. The needle dulls after the first piercing, which may make the second piercing hurt more.
• Pierced with two needles and pieces of jewelry:
  • The Advantages:
  1. Reducing stress on the piercing during healing reduces migration and other issues that can occur during the healing process.
  2. The needle is sharp for both piercings.
  • The Disadvantages:
  1. Each piercing may shift or move during the healing.
  2. Increased likelihood of the two piercings being placed wrong or migrating to an angle that is not in alignment.
  3. If the healed angle of the two piercings is not straight, it could cause the two healed piercings to migrate, reject, or have other problems when the barbell is put in.
  4. After the piercings are healed, the barbell may need to be bent or adjusted to fit the angles of the piercings. If the jewelry is not adjusted correctly, it can cause a healed piercing to migrate, lead to scarring, or deform the ear.
• Jewelry that should be avoided during Healing:
  • Novelty jewelry that has sharp edges and points, or has anything hanging from it. During healing the jewelry needs to be as simple as possible.
  • Ear Piercing Studs and other traditional jewelry:
    • ​​The jewelry is often too short to accommodate the thickness of the piercing area, which prevents swelling and can cause the jewelry to become impacted in the piercing. Additionally, if the jewelry is too tight, it can block both the discharge and the flow of oxygen, which can prolong healing time and/or increase the risk of infection or other complications.
    • The backs or locks are loose and can be tightened with normal wear.
    • Often, the jewelry material is not body-friendly. Even those marketed to individuals with metal sensitivity are only plated.
    • In most cases, they cannot be sterilized correctly.

​Size of the Jewelry and Weight:

• ​Gauge:​

As a refresher, gauge refers to the thickness of the wire used to make the jewelry. Body piercing jewelry typically starts at 18-gauge and ranges up to 0000-gauge. The smaller the number, the thicker the jewelry will be. As I'm sure you know, the thicker the jewelry is, the more weight it carries and thus the more stress it puts on the piercing during the healing period. Also, the thicker the jewelry, the more tissue that needs to be produced, and hence the longer the healing period. Although in most cases, an 18-gauge piercing will heal in about the same time as a 12-gauge piercing.

When choosing the gauge of the jewelry, the jewelry needs to be thick enough to reduce rejection or migration and have resistance to tearing, but light enough that it will not cause added stress during healing. Usually in this part of the consultation, I ask the piercee what their plans are for the future. Industrial piercings often do not lend themselves to stretching. I suggest that if the shape of the ear allows for larger gauge jewelry and the piercer wants a larger gauge, the piercing should be done at that gauge. 

When choosing the proper gauge for an industrial application, the first consideration is how thick both areas are and what gauge will reduce the likelihood of rejection and migration. In my experience, jewelry needs to be at least 14g to minimize rejections, migration, and tearing. With larger gauges, you must consider that if there is insufficient tissue to accommodate the larger gauge, there will be an increased risk of tearing, rejection, and migration. The combination of thinner tissue between the piercing and the surface, along with the added weight, may not yield the best results.

• Width:

​​The jewelry needs to be large enough to allow extra room for swelling, discharge, and cleaning. Since Industrial piercings are done with a barbell, which is restrictive, it's essential to have additional length. In most cases, at least an extra 1/8 to 1/4 inch longer than the outside of the piercing area. Jewelry that is too tight can cause the ear to be folded and deformed, which can lead to stress on the piercing. This will increase the risks of migration, scarring, prolonged healing, and possibly deforming the ear itself.

Even in a healed piercing, you should avoid putting jewelry that is too tight on the piercing. The jewelry should be loose-fitting and comfortable, without folding the ear or altering its shape in any way. Even in a healed piercing, it can cause migration, scarring, and tearing of the piercing. 

In conclusion, nothing replaces the first-hand knowledge of a professional piercer when it comes to choosing the correct jewelry. There are vast differences in shape and size, and often, what works for 99.99% of the public is not the best choice for you. The goal of this is to provide you with a working understanding of jewelry selection, so that you can have an informed discussion with your piercer about what will work best. Every piercer understands that one of the motivations for getting a piercing is fashion, but jewelry that will produce the best outcome should always consider fashion last. Think of the jewelry used for the piercing as temporary, or trainer jewelry, that will be replaced with your preferred choice once the piercing is healed.